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But experts say it's climate change and not war that is the long-term worry. The war in Ukraine has also worsened shortages because that country also produces mustard seeds. Overall, mustard yields in the province were down by more than half. JACOBS: Forty degrees Celsius is 104 Fahrenheit. So it's a difficult thing to watch your year's work wither. And then temperatures ratcheted upwards, especially in early July, getting close to 40 degrees. But things aren't nearly as bad as last year. It's a busy time of year for Hirsch, who's bringing in a harvest that's been impacted for a second year by a lingering drought. JACOBS: That's the sound of a combine harvesting mustard on the farm of Kevin Hursh in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan.
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The country produces half the world's exports of mustard seed. Most of the seed used by manufacturers actually comes from the Canadian prairies. JACOBS: Because it turns out, only a fraction of the mustard seed used by French mustard producers grows in Dijon. VILLAIS: Even they didn't have anything but very odd-flavored mustard. But she found even their gift shops had run short. JACOBS: In Dijon, you can visit mustard producers like some people visit wineries. VILLAIS: We were looking forward to be able to score some mustard because there had been a shortage for a couple of weeks in Paris already. JACOBS: Luckily, Villais, a translator and political consultant, had a vacation planned to Dijon, the region of France synonymous with the country's favorite condiment. It's also quite reassuring because it's always, always in your fridge. And then even the fancy specialty mustards had sold out. Emma Jacobs reports the shortage actually has roots an ocean away.ĮMMA JACOBS, BYLINE: First, Gabrielle Villais noticed the popular mustard brands had gone missing from Paris supermarkets, then the lesson-known ones. A severe mustard shortage has troubled the country, one of the world's top mustard consumers. For months, shoppers in France have seen a worrying gap in the condiment aisle.